The Town-class light cruiser, HMS Belfast, is situated at the Pool of London just north-west of Tower Bridge. Across the River Thames is the Tower of London, a medieval fortress juxtaposed against HMS Belfast, a mid-twentieth century fortress of the seas. Her name was changed to HMS Belfast (1938) recently to avoid confusion with the newly ordered Royal Navy’s Type 26 frigate HMS Belfast.
Two conflicts dominate the history of HMS Belfast; the Second World War and the Korean War.
She has four battle honours to her name:
Arctic 1943
North Cape 1943
Normandy 1944
Korea 1950–52
She took part in the sinking of the Scharnhorst, she was one of the first ships to open fire at the commencement of the Allied landings in Normandy, and during the Korean War she spent two years in theatre.
In 1967 a concerted campaign was begun to save HMS Belfast as a museum ship. She became a museum ship on 21st October 1971 (Trafalgar Day), a poignant nod to Britain’s naval heritage. The Imperial War Museums are now the custodians of HMS Belfast. When she was converted into a museum ship, it was decided to restore her to her 1950’s design, due to the conversion she underwent in the fifties.
Located near to two train stations (one underground, one overground (both named London Bridge)), it is an easy location to reach. An adult ticket costs £27, £13.50 for children above 5 years old, and a senior ticket costs £24.30 (prices correct at time of writing). She is open to visitor’s seven days a week, with the last admission being at 1630.
Upon arriving at the museum, you enter a small reception/shop area. The shop is a treasure trove of HMS Belfast merchandise (I could have purchased the whole shop). A bar is located on the roof. Once you have purchased or collected your tickets, it is time to board London’s Warship Experience.
To board HMS Belfast you must walk along a gangway which takes you to the aft of the ship and onto the quarter deck where the ship’s bell is located. Upon stepping aboard you are greeted by a volunteer who will happily offer advice about exploring the nine decks of the ship.
There is a route that can be followed that is marked by arrows on the floor. However, she is a maze off passages and stairs. This being the case, and with an exploratory streak, I quickly left behind the route and made my own way around the ship.
The majority of the ship is open to visitors. The first area I explored was X turret. I am fascinated with naval guns. To be able to step inside a gun turret and see it fully restored was fascinating. The audio playing within added to the immersive experience. In fact, speakers are situated around the ship.
After making my way into the interior, I gradually made my way down into the bowels of Belfast. The magazine of A Turret is a fascinating insight into the firepower of HMS Belfast. Further down in the ship is the engine room. This is a space that is crammed with machinery, walkways and four huge boilers. The engine room shows off Belfast’s powerful propulsion system, with the vessel theoretically able to reach 32 knots.
There are a several interactive features on the ship. You can have a go at steering the ship at the lower steering position, play a game of World of Warships as HMS Belfast, and command a search and rescue mission on a top-down touch screen console.
Next on my journey through the ship, I made my way to the fo’c’sle where the anchor and chains are situated. I then moved onto A and B gun turrets. Unlike most ships, HMS Belfast has two bridges; the Captain’s bridge and the Admiral’s bridge. This is fascinating as it tells the story of how Belfast could operate as a flagship. The Captain would be free (theoretically) to run his ship, whilst the Admiral (Rear/Vice/Full) could command a squadron/fleet from his own headquarters.
HMS Belfast, like most ships, had a ship’s cat. Frankenstein served in 1942/43. You can find a replica of him aboard, sleeping (what cats do best) in his own hammock.
Ships are notoriously inaccessible. However, Belfast has a lift/elevator which ensures most areas of are accessible for wheelchair users. History and heritage is for everyone, and HMS Belfast ensures this is the case.
Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed my time exploring HMS Belfast. It is an immersive snapshot into the life of a mid-twentieth century warship. The motto of HMS Belfast is ‘For so much, how shall we repay?’ You can repay the brave actions of the ship, the crew, and Frankenstein the cat, by visiting HMS Belfast and walking its decks, just like those brave souls of the mid-Twentieth century.
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Luke was born and raised in Gosport, Hampshire, UK, a town with a rich naval history and heritage. He is currently studying for a master’s degree in Naval History with the University of Portsmouth. When he isn’t reading or writing about naval history, Luke can usually be found playing World of Warships or out on the Solent in his kayak.