The War of the Triple Alliance (1865-1870), also known as the Paraguayan War, was the bloodiest and most destructive war in the history of South America. The war started after the Uruguayan War, which saw the Empire of Brazil and Argentina support the Colorado Party and Paraguay backing the countries governing Blanco Party. The Uruguayan War ended with the Colorado Party being victorious which in turn kicked off a war between Paraguay and the Empire of Brazil and Uruguay. This soon escalated with Paraguay declaring war on Argentina.
At the time of the war, it is fair to say Paraguay probably had the best trained army of the four countries, which gave them the advantage. But the tide of the war soon changed, with Paraguayan forces retreating, and preparing for an invasion. The fighting within Paraguay was some of the bloodiest of the entire conflict. After the capital city Asuncion fell to allied forces, the Paraguayan army retreated to the hills and fought a guerrilla style war.
The conflict ended with the death of the Paraguay’s dictator, Francisco Solano López at Cero Corra on 1 March 1870. The war left Paraguay devastated with the country in ruins and up to 90% of the male population dead.
The museum of Paso de Patria is an important reminder of the Paraguayan War. Situated in the small town of Paso de Patria, in the south of Paraguay, around 300 kilometres from the capital Asuncion, on the border with Argentina. The area is steeped in history, with numerous battlefields dotted around, close by the town.
On arriving to the museum one of the first things to notice are the busts of Marshal Francisco Solano López and General Jose Diaz. General Diaz being one of the most famous generals of the war.
The museum is run by Vincente Garcia, who has spent a great number of years gathering the artefacts on display. While the museum only consists of three rooms, the collections contain a vast and extensive range of objects from the conflict, from simple muskets balls, to more elaborate artillery shells, equipment, bottles and items used by soldiers of the various armies. Some of the more impressive items, include some of the weapons used, including swords and muskets.
Laid out over three rooms, the first contains Vincente’s desk, and a large display case with many smaller objects such as buttons and belt buckles. The second room contains the remains of various muskets and rifles. There are also swords, bayonets, horse stirrups on the wall. Small shelves also hold glass bottles and stone ware jars and bottles. A display case in the centre of room contains various parts of muskets and swords with another display case contain smaller more delicate glass bottles. The final room contains more glass bottles but what is really impressive is the sheer number of various calibre cannon balls and shells. During this part of the tour it was interesting to learn how the Paraguayan reused unexploded shells fired by the Triple Alliance.
Each of the items helps tell the greater story of the war, with the enthusiastic Vincente there to explain what each item is for the uninitiated visitor. Vincente also knows the local battlefields like the back of his hand, so is able to explain the positions of the various armies during the different battles which took place.
For me as a visitor, there was a lot to take in. Though I really enjoyed being handed a smooth bore musket by Vincente to get a feel for the weight of the weapon. Though seeing all the various objects from a conflict I had only read about was a great experience and put into perspective how vicious the conflict was.
The museum is well worth visiting for anyone interested in the conflict, and could be easily included as part of a battlefield tour. Though for any potential visitors it is probably best to get in touch with the museum to confirm opening hours. They can be contacted via their Facebook page, “Museo de Paso de Patria”.
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Stephen Callaghan is an independent historian interested in burial grounds, churches, barracks, military history, geology and the Paraguayan War.