As a traveller, I enjoy having a map to guide me and, honestly, even save me. But imagine a museum full of maps—a childhood dream come true! Growing up in Romania I enjoyed drawing maps so I jumped at the opportunity to visit and explore a vast collection of them.
At Museum of Maps and Old Books in Bucharest you can go on a treasure hunt through history with maps dating back to 1525. There are maps of continents and oceans, complete with depictions of sea monsters, as well as cartography books, and even augmented reality works such as a 16th-century engraving of Cluj, Romania, that come alive. Maps do provide access to the world, inviting us to explore and conquer new territories. More importantly, maps remind us to stay on track with our own souls and never lose sight of our destination.
The Bucharest’s National Museum of Maps and Old Books is unique in Romania and Europe, with over 1,000 items the majority of which have been donated. As a map museum it has the fourth highest number of exhibits in the world. Despite its small size, the Map Museum is a true gem, showing you a new facet on each visit as many exhibits are not permanently on display due to space constraints.
The National Museum of Maps and Old Books is located in a charming area of Bucharest, housed in a mysterious building that once belonged to a wealthy Armenian merchant. Since 2003 when it opened this architectural gem, designed by Architect Emil Călinescu with a keen interest in the “Art Déco” style, has captivated visitors with its charm. The building features enchanting Venetian-style loggias and boasts ceiling murals and stained glass windows with cartographical themes, created by dedicated painters especially for this exhibition. As you walk through the museum you'll see works by contemporary artists depicting sky maps with constellations and star signs, the geocentric model (with Earth at the centre) of the universe, the heliocentric model, moon phases, and dreamy ocean maps.
The Map Museum does not feel like a typical showroom. Far from being a cold maze, it is a chic, warm space with patterned wooden floors that creaks gently underfoot, filling the air with a soft, comforting scent. The light streaming through the stained glass windows creates colourful patterns, and the painted ceilings creating a peaceful and tranquil atmosphere. The friendly staff and the simple layout of the museum make it a place where you are not rushed, but rather encouraged to linger and soak up the ambiance.
The Renaissance Cartography Room welcomes you with a massive earth globe that commands attention. Some of the oldest maps are displayed here, including a 16th-century map of Transylvania that piqued my interest. The map's representation of relief is more artistic than scientific, with the size of settlement symbols proportional to the importance of the cities.
As you ascend the stairs you pass by antique engravings and illustrations before reaching the first floor. Here you can explore Romania's historical provinces, including Wallachia, Transylvania, and Moldova, as well as a room dedicated to old maps depicting the Black Sea, Bucharest, and Romania.
On the second floor a treasure trove of maps awaits. There are moon maps, war maps, treasure maps, geographical maps, European maps, and maps from other faraway places.
Maps may appear commonplace to us today, but their creation was a meticulous art form involving craftsmanship and dedication. Creating a map was not always a simple task. An artist would begin by etching intricate details into a gravure plaque, such as mountains, rivers, symbols, and words, with each element created as a mirror image of the final design. Once etching done ink was poured into the engraving's grooves, and a damp sheet of paper made from cloth was carefully placed on top. Unlike modern cellulose, this paper was made in paper mills from rags and fibres, giving it superior durability and resistance to the effects of time and sunlight. Under the press, the paper absorbed the ink, transferring the map's details onto the surface. Finally, the map was done.
As a historical fiction writer my fascination with this meticulous process is inextricably linked to my interest in the Ottoman Empire and Mediterranean Sea. Maps from these eras provide more than just historical information; they open a window into the past revealing the strategic, cultural, and economic landscapes that shaped my native country, Romania, and the world. The Ottoman Empire's cartographic artistry, which combines scientific precision and decorative flair, tells stories of conquests, trade routes, and the intricate dance of diplomacy. Therefore each map represents a chapter in history with echoes of explorers, merchants, and empires that once thrived throughout the Mediterranean. Studying these maps feeds my imagination and enriches my writing, providing a tangible link to the past that motivates my creative endeavours and uplifts my soul.
One of my favourite discoveries at the Map Museum was Lorenz Fries' 1525 map which provides an intriguing glimpse into historical geography. This remarkable map, one of the oldest surviving examples of the Renaissance period, depicts the geographical area that now includes parts of Romania, Lithuania, Hungary, and Poland.
What surprised me about this medieval map is its unusual orientation. Fries' map differs from modern maps in that it lacks cardinal directions. Instead, it combines northern and eastern perspectives in a way that, while confusing to us today, was perfectly intentional at the time. Historically, the term "orientation" derives from the Latin word orient, which means "east." During the medieval period most European maps were oriented eastward because there was Jerusalem, regarded as the world's spiritual centre. For medieval Europeans the east held a sacred significance and served as the starting point for all journeys and explorations.
This map depicts not only the geographical features of Eastern Europe but also the medieval mind-set that saw Jerusalem as the centre of the known world. As I stood in front of it, I couldn't help but be impressed by how this simple yet profound choice of orientation reveals the era's deeply held beliefs and worldviews.
Another one of the museum's highlights, for me, was the 17th-century map of Japan, created at a time when this enigmatic island nation was closed to Western visitors, having no commercial ties with them. This exceptional map is based on the pioneering work of Engelbert Kaempfer, a German doctor and diplomat who visited Japan at the time. Kaempfer's remarkable achievements are legendary. He not only learned Japanese, but was also invited to the emperor's court, where he immersed himself in Japanese art, culture, and daily life. For nearly two centuries, his observations and writings served as the most important source of knowledge about Japan, bridging the gap between East and West during a period of isolation.
The map's cartouche is a visual feast, richly ornamented and set against a detailed allegorical scene. It includes intricate depictions of buildings, boats, and palm trees resulting in a vibrant tableau of Japan, as seen from afar. At the centre of this scene are two figures: a regal female figure seated on a throne, representing Japan through the lens of European cartographic traditions, and a male figure in Western attire holding a map—none other than Engelbert Kaempfer himself. The map's design not only reflects the artistry of the time, but it also honours Kaempfer's pioneering contributions. As you look at the cartouche you are transported to a time when Japan was a mysterious and distant land, known only through the eyes of a determined explorer.
For sure, each floor of the National Museum of Maps and Old Books in Bucharest provides a unique perspective on the rich history and art of cartography.
View with augmented reality:
Aside from such captivating exhibits there is much to look forward to as you plan your visit to the Map Museum. I know I am! The museum provides a delightful selection of experiences, such as wine tastings, concerts, and temporary exhibitions that are sure to enrich one’s every visit. I look forward to participate in musical map events where young performers are invited to connect musically to a star map, bringing its story to life for the audience. Literary events delve into the world of maps through the written word, while family-friendly activities provide exciting opportunities to explore the museum's treasures together.
The items in the museum’s collection are a treasure trove of historical and artistic interest, meticulously curated with rich background information that encourages in-depth reflection. After visiting the National Museum of Maps and Old Books my thoughts turned to lost borders, ancient place names, and forgotten routes sparking further reflections on historical journeys, vanished civilizations, and the evolving human understanding of the world. Maps, after all, are more than just navigational tools; they are a reflection of the times in which they were created, giving us a glimpse into how previous societies perceived their place in the universe.
Walking through the Map Museum feels like entering a historical dreamscape, with each artefact telling a story of exploration and discovery. The museum's diverse collection, which includes ancient Ottoman Empire maps as well as 18th-century Japanese cartography, demonstrates the artistry and science of mapmaking throughout history. The exhibits' rich textures, carefully crafted cartouches, and each map's intriguing historical context invite you to reflect on the mysteries of the past and visions of bygone eras.
Whether you're interested in the intricate details of early cartography or inspired by the museum's dynamic events, the Bucharest’s National Museum of Maps and Old Books provides a unique and enriching experience. It is a place where history comes to life and each visit promises to increase your appreciation for the art and science of mapping.
The Bucharest National Museum of Maps and Old Books in Bucharest is a portal to understanding our world's history through cartography. It's a haven for those looking to discover the stories behind old maps, gain historical perspective, and participate in a variety of exciting cultural and social events. The museum's thoughtful curation and immersive exhibits make it an essential stop for anyone interested in the intersections of history, art, and exploration. A walk through its halls is more than just a look back in time; it is also an invitation to consider our place in the universe and the maps we create to help us navigate it.
Address: Londra 39 Street, district 1, Bucharest
Website: https://www.muzeulhartilor.ro/?lang=en
Open Wednesday to Sunday, 10:00 – 18:00
Closed Monday and Tuesday
March to October, first Friday of every month: 10:00 – 21:00
Closed during Romanian Public Holidays: Easter holidays, 1st & 2nd of January, 1st of May, 1st of June, 15th August, 30 November, 1st of December, 25 & 26 December
Adults – 10 lei
Students – 2,5 lei
Seniors – 5 lei
Every last Wednesday of the month
For students during school holidays
One inconvenience: due to its floor plan (on three levels) it is not wheel-chair friendly.
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Patricia Furstenberg writes books immersed in history, the folklore of her native Romania, and always featuring a dog or two. Mother, traveler, and flâneuse Patricia is the creator of hashtag #Im4Ro hashtag, sharing positive stories from Romania.
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