…Suddenly a Dassault Mirage shoots out in front of me and soars up into the sky… I grasp the steering wheel, white knuckled, about to effect an emergency stop… but no wait that’s a roundabout!
Situated in the heart of nougat country in the Drôme department of southern France, just bordering the Ardèche, is a true gem of an aviation museum dedicated to fighter jets. Montélimar is just south of Valence on the A7 “Autoroute de Soleil” motorway.
Driving westward from town I am greeted by a roundabout with a Mirage fighter jet, so I must be getting close. At the next roundabout I make a right down a narrower road, passing into the small village of Ancône, where I nearly miss a discrete right turn into a small lane. Thank goodness the navi is on form today. Bearing left at the end of the road, at the edge of Ancône aerodrome, is the museum.
I pull the rental car into the carpark, which is amply sized for the museum, but in the midst of summer lacks any protection from the beating sun. I stroll to the entrance and the welcoming shade of the path, guarded by a German Shooting Star and guided missile.
Inside is cool and open plan, with toilets and a drinks machine to my left, while over my right shoulder a 1930s era biplane sits happily. In front of me is a well stocked gift shop with aviation toys aplenty, themed key rings, patches, and a beautiful selection of unique t-shirts and hoodies, one of which I couldn’t resist getting on the way out.
The ticket office is to the side, which accepts cardless payment and the staff are friendly and helpful. Despite me speaking French I detected a hint of English replied. Perhaps as the region is well visited by Dutch and Swiss tourists. I am passed my ticket and a small piece of nougat. Thoughtful considering that Montélimar is the nougat capital of the world.
Through into the first hanger they waste no time, as before me I see several French made jets used by the Swiss airforce, as well as some ejector seats, a variety of plane components and many glass cabinets bursting with scale models. The path around the hanger is lined with rope barriers and is wide, without steps, especially for wheel chair access. A feature echoed in the park and other hangers. This also allows you to get up close and personal to the aircraft, although touching is strictly forbidden. There isn‘t any seating in the hangers themselves, that takes up too much exhibit space, but in the park there are sufficient benches.
Next to the planes I find information panels in French and English, as well as scannable multilingual QR codes. The descriptions give an overview history of the aircraft and its service in the military. By the way, tour guides are also available in French and English for larger groups.
Out into the park I am immediately immersed into military airplane heaven with a range of French, German and US planes, including a Jaguar, Hawker Hunter, Star Fighter, C160 transport plane, a Caravelle passenger liner, and many many more. Did I mention the DC3 Dakota? The park is also home to a US military truck and halftrack, a mobile radar trailer and the odd pile of spare parts.
The Caravelle is visitable, so I negotiated the narrow rear steps up into the somewhat spooky interior, with rather more foot room than today‘s offerings I might add, wandering through and emerging out into bright daylight and a wonderful view across the site and parked aircraft. Unfortunately this attraction is not tailored to wheelchair users.
Straight ahead is the mini museum on wireless sets and a welcomed cool from the hot sun, which leads me to a smaller hanger devoted to the French air force flying school.
Left and right are larger hangers, similar to the first but packed with even more planes, including a humongous SAAB and Mirage IV, which you can walk under, as well as a couple of Migs. Currently there is also the fuselage of a Dehavilland Vampire awaiting restoration, showing its wooden structure - a wooden fighter jet! The hangers are a mix of airplanes, components, radar systems, landing gear, engines…
Although I think the Mirage is what most people imagine a fighter jet to look like, myself included, my favourite exhibit was the Hunter or Vampire fuselage. Or perhaps the crowd funded DC3 acquired in 2014, oh I don’t know. Niggle, I would have liked to have been able to visit inside a few more planes, such as the Dakota or C160.
Exact prices and opening times are listed on their website, which I would suggest visiting before making any travel plans, but I paid €9.00 myself, which seemed fair. The museum is open 7 days a week and only closed on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. Hours vary depending on the opening season but generally it’s weekdays 9am till 6.30pm (2pm - 6.30pm weekend and public holidays) in summer. Located in a small provincial town getting there is strictly by private transport, however if you are holidaying in the region, chances are that won’t be a problem.
The museum is honest and non pretentious, with an impressive collection. A key attraction for families as I saw on my visit and one I could easily spend hours at.
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Olivier C Dorrell is the author of British Officer’s Peak Caps of the Second World War (Schiffer Books, 2014) and is the Webmaster of the Worcestershire Militaria Museum, virtual museum. He is interested in art and history, military history in particular, and is a keen visitor and supporter of museums and the unique experiences they offer.