Tintern Abbey

Nestled in the winding Wye Valley which separates England and Wales sits Tintern Abbey. Founded as a Cistercian Monastic Order in 1131, the building at least has stood defiantly against the vandalism of later generations and the relentless advance of the elements. Nonetheless Tintern has been welcoming visitors for nine hundred years. The Monks who once lived here until the 16th century would obligingly follow Chapter 53 of The Rule of St Benedict,

“All guests who arrive should be received as Christ, so that he will say, I was a stranger, and you took me in.”

But back to the 21st century a moment for a bit of housekeeping. Car parking is £5, which you will get discounted from a purchase in the accompanying Abbey shop (excluding your ticket price). You can also claim the car parking cost back if you visit The Anchor Inn next door with a food or drink purchase of the equivalent price or higher. I would advise visiting earlier rather than later as the limited parking does fill up quickly.

CADW members (Welsh Heritage) go free with an annual membership. Adults £8.55. Family (2 adults, 3 children) £27.36. Disabled and Carer, Free. Juniors (5-17) £6.03. Seniors (65+) £7.92. Under 5s go free. There is a 10% discount for Blue Light Card holders (Police, Fire Service and Health workers) and members of the Armed Forces and veterans. Prices correct up to March 2025. Open all year-round bar 24, 25, 26 December and 1 January. Check for opening times before you visit. Free public toilets adjacent. The only entry is through the shop where there's another toilet just outside (Only for use by paying visitors).

Entering the Abbey grounds, ‘The Warming House’ is the first port of call. The surrounding reddened stone gave away the function of this area before I read the sign. Lit from November 1 until Good Friday, it was a respite from the cold to visitors and the Monks alike. Although I would add that for a vast majority of their day, the Monks were expected to suffer the cold. This space would be used as a makeshift barbers for trimming beards and because the cliché about Middle Age medicine is true, bloodletting.

Next door is the Refectory where the Monks would eat together sat against the wall while listening to a brother read a Holy text. On a steady diet of bread and vegetables washed down with at least a gallon of weak beer once a day in winter and twice in summer. Feast days introduced the luxuries of eggs and meat. While today most who read this would be aghast, compared to the vast majority of peasants at the time, this was fine dining.

Sticking with food, taking a sharp detour left will lead you to walk amongst the foundational remains of the infirmary, infirmary kitchen (separate to the Abbey kitchen that exclusively catered for the Monks) and the Abbott’s residence. Standing amongst these ruins I noticed with the proximity of these buildings, a little con trick had gone on. For residents of the infirmary, the priority according to the rules of St Benedict was to make them well again. A big part of that was access to more food, particularly meat including venison. But it’s my view the Abbott’s of the 14th century noticed this and used the resources of the infirmary to host social functions. Secular guests would expect a generous menu and of course the Abbott as host would share in the feast. As time went on, other senior Monk’s migrated to live next door to the Abbott and share in the arrangement. What’s that saying about location?

For the history buffs amongst you, the growing social status of the Abbott due to the Church’s ownership of prime farmland and the accumulation of tenant farmers. Inevitably this bred resentment among secular Lords and by the 1530s King Henry VIII himself. Abbeys were by this time the centres of most communities and sat on a horde of wealth. While the Reformation with its shift to Protestantism had a primary spiritual purpose, not far behind was the opportunity to get rich.

A short stroll to walk off last night’s venison the Abbott would visit where I went to next, the Chapter House. Formerly held up by exquisite pillars where the Abbott with a full belly would hear the confessions of the Monks and set their penance. The Monk’s would also hear a daily reading of one of the 73 chapters of the Rule of St Benedict. The Abbott would then set work and announce any news. Think of a morning team meeting where the underwhelming manager gives a half-baked pep talk before you break your back with manual labour all day.

Next was the cloister which was an exceptionally peaceful place where you can imagine the beautiful gardens and Monks sat in contemplation. During the Middle Ages there would be covered walkways and allowed the Monks to be outside without leaving the Abbey. This would also be where in a trough just outside the Refectory, the Monks would wash before mealtimes. A fun fact, in almost all other cloisters in other Abbeys, they would be south facing. But here it faces north. In an already cold climate, I think the architect in the design process was a tiny bit spiteful.

Entering the Church(pictured at top of article), you are immediately taken aback by the scale and your imagination quickly wonders what once was. The Gothic style remaining today was built upon the existing Norman architecture. The reason was because just like today the Church had rich patrons and one in particular, Roger Bigod was a central driver of that. This new Church was completed in 1301. There is a grim irony in this story however. Once completed at great expense, a few decades later the Black Death killed up to two thirds of the Monks. This removed the need for all the space and effort that had gone into construction. The number of Monks never quite recovered as the Abbey needed to rely on tenant farmers to work their land, where before the Monks would themselves.

I only entered and left once, but the Monks would enter 8 times a day for prayers and Mass. The east end of the church contained the high altar which was closed off to all but the Monks. Unfortunately, due to restoration work a large section was closed off and I couldn’t get a photo through the scaffolding.

While in the past there would be small chapels to individual saints dotted around, I came across a maintained Virgin Mary with baby Jesus complete with some fresh roses. Every Cistercian Abbey was dedicated to Our Lady Mary and this statue was added in 2007 by sculptor Philip Chatfield inspired the remains of the original pieces. It was a lovely touch and is testament to the Friends of Tintern Abbey who fundraise and make direct contributions to the upkeep of the Abbey itself.

During the mandatory perimeter walk to make sure I didn’t miss anything out, I came across a huge Oak tree planted in 1911 to commemorate the coronation of George V. What was comforting about this, the mightiest of British tree species is that in a space dominated by ruins, a giant centurion will provide a beacon of strength and life for decades if not centuries to come.

While a visit to the Abbey is an hour tops, it is by no means the end of the visit. The surrounding village has a selection of coffee shops and places to eat. Particularly popular with cyclists, you can cover a good amount of the area with constant lovely views. If you stay on your feet, there is a lovely walk along the River Wye.

Adam Wate

Adam Wate is a full-time disability carer, and during his free time is a screenwriter and author. History is a bug that got him early and there’s not a day that goes by where he’s not reading a history book or visiting a museum or historical site.