I met Inveraray Castle and Estate on my way the first time I watched Downton Abbey TV drama series: ‘Duneagle Castle’ (its name in the fiction) entered my life in a flash as a thunderbolt shines in the dark sky during a storm. I remember I was truly impressed by the fairy atmosphere, the immaculate nature, the awesome estate and the cracking sky. I understood in a few seconds that Inveraray was not a simple castle or a common historical house. Not at all: it was, and obviously it is, a little paradise in the middle of a heavenly vale. In a nutshell, much more than a castle, much more than a museum, much more than a historical place. That’s just a marvellous mix of magic, marvel and enchantment surrounded by a fairy-tale panorama as if there were a pleasant and lovable spell. In a space and time that seem to stand still and make this inner peace and happiness last forever, far from the devouring daily routine and catastrophic problems. I assure you: after a journey to Loch Fyne you’ll feel younger!
When I entered the estate I was able to imagine and ‘see’ through my eyes all the scenes of Downton Abbey episode as the walls and the rooms beautifully recalled each moment of the Crawley family and staff’s vacation to the Highlands at the mythical home of their cousins, the Marquess and Marchioness of Flintshire. Therefore I could commemorate the disintegration of the Flintshire’s marriage, Lady Rose’s modern way of thinking and pranks, Lady Edith's decision to become the mistress of a married man, Lady Mary’s pregnancy, Lady Violet walking in the colourful gardens, Miss O’ Brien and Lady Susan’s maid and so on... Above all, I remembered the super electrifying Ghillies Ball, that was the highlight of the Crawley’s holiday when the whole household came together for a Campbell tartan evening of Scottish dancing: yes indeed, in that moment your mind thinks of this superlative ball and all the castle seems to come alive and take part in the musical event with the sparkling sound of violins and the brilliant dancers animating the rooms as in a fairy revival while the brightness of the walls reveals a typically Scottish charm suitable for dancing.
But wait a minute, please. Let’s discover further details about this traditional Ghillie ball that represents the best and most awesome Scottish topic related to Inveraray Castle. Well, according to the dictionary the word ‘ghillie’ comes from a shoe resembling a ballet shoe and made from supple leather. Both men and women used to wear ghillies for Scottish Highland dancing (and Irish women also made use of this type of shoe: in effect the Irish ghillies vary little from the Scottish in style). Moreover our wise vocabulary explains that the term ‘ghillie’ can be used in other ways because a ‘ghillie’ is a Scottish boy acting as an attendant during the activities of the upper class gentlemen like fishing, fly fishing, hunting, deer stalking.
Okay, but when was this term invented? In short, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert had been visiting Scotland during their holidays since 1842. You know, the royal couple did adore Scotland and Albert decided to buy Balmoral Castle ten years later. That’s why Queen Victoria organized a dance the same year in September, known as the Ghillies Ball, in order to thank her precious staff and faultless servants. In fact, on that occasion they were allowed to dance with the upper class and that was a remarkable ‘turning point’ due to the fact that the staff ( cooks and maids) didn’t have everyday interactions with the family.
So just to recap, Inveraray Castle was shown at its best just during the sublime Ghillie ball. At last, don’t forget the cracking shots of the gardens and surroundings plus the breathtaking West Highland’s spectacular hills, lochs and glens. The most curious visitors will surely feel like to live again each moment of the Crawley’s stay from their arrival at the castle on the original front steps (gardens entrance), the awesome Armoury Hall, then the typical dinner in the State Dining Room. Finally, the family picnic over-looking the Dhu Loch, Anna and John Bates picnicking by the river, Lady Rose smoking around the Castle and salmon fishing in the river.
No doubt, the room I preferred above all was MacARTHUR ROOM. You know, there is a ghostly bed in this room that belonged to the MacArthurs of Loch Awe. According to the heartbreaking legend, a young Irish harpist was murdered by the Duke of Montrose’s men in 1644. So the bed was moved to the present castle from the old Inveraray Castle and the boy’s ghost stayed attached to the bed and travelled with it (I think the ghost travelled free without paying any bus/taxi ticket!) . Therefore, when a member of the family is about to die, they say that harp music is heard coming from the room...Really spine-chilling! Now on the bed you can see an elegant and pretty doll staring at each visitor. I don’t know whether she can play the harp, anyway please you are highly recommended to pay attention: she’s supposed to be one of ghost’s friends…
However, the estate hosts various ghosts including the mysterious ‘Grey Lady’, only seen by daughters of a Duke of Argyll, a floating ship or ‘Galley of Lorne’ moving away on the horizon on the death of the Duke and a raucous kitchen maid. O’ my God, that’s an entire ghost team! I do believe that the Ghostbusters would have a lot of work if they came to Loch Fyne!
Jokes aside, this haunted room contains several paintings including Scottish School portraits of Anne Nasmyth of Posso, wife of John Callander of Craigforth, later Campbell of Ardkinglas and her two children. Also, a portrait by Gavin Hamilton of famous London beauty and society hostess Elizabeth Gunning called the ‘Double Duchess’ after her consecutive marriages to 6th Duke of Hamilton and 5th Duke of Argyll ( she was inevitably meant to be a duchess!). In conclusion, MacArthur room is a melting pot of legendary characters, fictional stories, sublime artworks and chilling romance. Thus it’s unique and definitely spectacular, like the panorama you can enjoy through the pleasant window: from my point of view, that’s ‘a room with a view’!
The Castle has been standing on the shores of Loch Fyne since the 1400s, even though the present building was designed by architect Vanbrugh, the ‘father’ of Blenheim Palace and Castle Howard in the 1700s. After his death, his great idea survived and became the base of the house which the 3rd Duke was eventually to build. The first stone was laid in 1746 and the construction assigned to architects Roger Morris and William Adam that selected a modern, baroque, Palladian and Gothic-style castle. Very particular and bizarre in those years.
Unfortunately, both Morris and Adam died before the castle was finished, therefore James and Robert Adam continued their work. Finally, 43 years after the first stone was laid, the chef-d’oeuvre was ready!
Don’t forget that the present structure is the result of a terrible fire in 1877: after the accident, the third floor and conical roofs on the corner towers were added.
That’s perfect! Let’s take a look at the ARMOURY HALL where you’ll be glad to admire the highest ceiling in Scottish territory. Also, a series of magnificent array of arms on display adorns the walls, including 16th and 17th century pole-arms and roundels of Brown Bess muskets dating from around 1740, with spandrels of muskets alternated with Lochaber axes. Moreover on show a bright collection of treasures associated with Inveraray and the Castle illuminating the long and colourful history of the Campbell Clan. The highlight is the dirk and sporran belonging to Rob Roy MacGregor (1671-1734), the famous Jacobite Scottish outlaw who became a Catholic folk hero. Walter Scott dedicated a novel to him and I visited his museum in Callander (STIRLING Council Area ) several years ago.
You must be an impeccable chaffeur if you really want to reach Inveraray! Haha, no worries: I do believe you can manage, but please take note that the road is very long, rough and mostly without guard rails (particularly in rainy and foggy days). Nevertheless it's worth it, no doubt! In effect the landscape is definitely spectacular and the atmosphere so idyllic!
Anyway, if you come from the enchanting and splendid Edinburgh, you could follow my instructions to enjoy, first of all, Bellshill village in North Lanarkshire (Sir Matt Busby’s birthplace) and then Inveraray. Before starting the tour, keep in mind that Alexander Matthew Busby was Manchester United’s manager in the 1950s-1960s and 2024 marks his 30th death Anniversary 1994-2024. But why should we celebrate his memory? It’s not difficult to understand: he was horribly involved in the tragic Munich Air Disaster in 1958 with his young Busby Babes and most of them dramatically died in the fatal crash. That terrible winter day the Elizabethan plane failed three take-off attempts and crashed into a building and tree just beyond the runway after not being able to leave the ground. Well, in short, Mr. Busby and the survivors were able to rebuild their lives, their souls and their team and devoted their existence to the memory of their lost fellows. After painful and hard years, at last they managed to triumph again and paid their heavy debt to fate. Only thanks to their great resilience.
So if you want to take a peep at Bellshill (a visit to this lovely town is highly recommended by me because this story is the topic of my latest book ‘Guiding Light’), please follow this route:
A8/ GLASGOW/ STIRLING/ M9/ LIVINGSTON
A725 CARLISLE/ M74/ BELLSHILL
B7070 BELLSHILL.
Then, when you’re ready to leave for Inveraray Castle, follow this route (and be very calm and patient while you’re driving: funny deers are waiting for you 😀):
HAMILTON ROAD
B7070
A725 interchange GLASGOW/ M74/ CARLISLE/ EAST K./ HAMILTON B7071
A725
M74 interchange roundabout 5h exit GLASGOW/ STIRLING/ M73
M74 (11 miles)
M8 interchange GLASGOW/ GREENOCK (9 miles)
EXIT N.30 🡪 M898 ERSKINE (2,5 miles)
A82 Interchange towards CRIANLARICH (2,5 miles)
At the roundabout 2nd exit towards DUMBARTON/ A82 (3 miles)
At the roundabout 2nd exit A82
STONEYMOLLIAN A82
ARDEN A82 (37 miles)
INVERARAY
A83 OLD MILITARY ROAD
INVERARAY CASTLE
Congratulations, you reached your destination! Now enter the Castle Park, follow the route to main entrance (please admire the colourful nature all around you) and leave your car in the free car Parking. Enjoy your visit!
If you can’t drive or you don’t have a car, try to find a cab or make use of Scottish Citylink bus from Glasgow to Inveraray ( 1h and 40 minutes) or
West Coast Motors – Tel: 01586 552319 www.westcoastmotors.co.uk
Bus 486 – Dunoon-Inveraray
CityLink – Tel: 0871 2663333 www.citylink.co.uk
Bus 926 – Glasgow-Inveraray-Campbeltown
Bus 976 – Glasgow-Inveraray-Oban.
After visiting the awesome Castle and strolling in the sophisticated gardens (you can see the famous bridge and the glorious Loch Fyne from there), you’ll have the interesting opportunity to enjoy your lunch at the Tearoom or, on a sunny day, seated outside.
The Scottish typical menu includes the best of Mull cheddars and Arran Ice creams, soups, scones and cakes made daily. Instead, the standard menu consiste of light meals of freshly prepared sandwiches, toasties or paninis. You can also find smoked salmons, locally caught seafood and meats. And…local wines and beers, no doubt! But keep in mind that the most bizarre elements are the enormous photos on the walls ( also in the Shop) portraiting Downton Abbey TV drama series’ characters. Probably you’ll remember the marvellous special episode in Series 3 totally set in Inveraray (‘A journey to the Highlands’). Thus, you’ll be able to have a lovely lunch and, in the same time, a romantic full immersion into Downton stories.
However, if you prefer to get an amazing and highlander lunch, please have a look at The George Hotel and Loch Fyne Hotel in the village. Please don’t forget to stroll in Inveraray village and breathe with the waves of Loch Fyne: inhale as the waves roll in and exhale as they recede. Practice gratitude and feel the Scottish earth beneath you and the Highlands energy: ‘My heart’s in the Highlands wherever I go…’ stated an old poem and song. Well, that’s true: your journey to Loch Fyne will always stay in your heart sweetly accompanied by the dazzling music of the Ghillie Ball and the touching happiness of the dancers. A thundering cracker of pure and romantic heartfelt entertainment.
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The cultural blog Downton Gazette was created in 2022 and concerns whatever can be referred to DOWNTON ABBEY, of which it shares the brave motto : ‘ You can change your life if you want to’ ( Mr Bates to Gwen, series 1). This website, also devoted to Theatre,Music and Art, supports the art activity of FONTANA SHELTER(in loving memory of the Italian painter Luigi Fontana), a member of West Ox Arts Gallery in Bampton, Oxfordshire Artweeks in Oxford, Opulent Art Gallery (London), Artsy (New York), Paks Gallery Cannes Biennale, Jaamzin Studio (Singapore), Parallax Art Fair in London. Previously on ITVX ANGLIA Region in Spring 2024, now on OX LOVES and FYNE TOWNS WEBSITE. Don’t forget Downton Gazette’s latest books ‘Shining Ocean’ and ‘Guiding Lights- A Tribute to Sir Matt Busby’.
CONTACT: https://downtongazette.altervista.org
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