Y Gaer museum

As you approach the Welsh town of Brecon, you see the glacial scars of the past bannered all around the landscape in the distinctive peaks. These are not quite as tall as the mountains of Snowdonia to the north, but a good few hours walk will bring you to an almost plinth like and distinctive summit named Pen Y Fan (Pen-uh-van).

Up there behind Pen Y Fan, you can see many similar sized summits stretching as far as the eye can see. These are the Brecon Beacons where an early internet of bonfires on their peaks communicated approaching invaders.

The town itself also yells its historical past on most of the Tudor and medieval facades of the buildings.

For me, I enjoy observing the surroundings of towns and their landscapes, it reminds me that I am already in a museum well before I enter any brick and mortar heritage site.

This particular one,“Y Gaer,” (pronounced as “uh gair,”) takes its Welsh name from, “The Fort,” or “The Fortress,” and is situated on the site of a Roman auxiliary fort called 'Cicucium,' built in the 1st century AD and part of the Roman conquest and military presence in Wales.

Artefacts recovered from this site included Roman pottery fragments, stone carvings and altar artefacts feature Roman gods. Evidence of the religious practices that took place in the fort. There are permanent exhibits of coins and other domestic items showing everyday life in that Roman period.

Neoclassical Architecture

The original entrance to the building is an elegant structure that blends classical architectural elements with local design. The building is a Grade II listed structure, originally built as the Brecknock Shire Hall, completed in 1842.

The facade of the building is neoclassical in style, dominated by six grand Ionic columns that support a triangular pediment. Above these columns, the inscription “Victoria Regina” as the building was constructed during her reign.

It became a museum in 1924 and underwent extensive restoration to become Y Gaer in 2019 at a cost of £14m. It now houses a library and community hub with cafe, as well as the original art gallery and museum. It is considered one of the finest small museums and art galleries in Wales.

The columns and symmetrical arrangement of the facade create a sense of grandeur and balance, typical of neoclassical architecture. The stonework is ashlar, giving the exterior a clean, uniform look.

Art To Artefacts

Today, you enter through a relaxing garden to the left of these columns where the 2019 modernisation cheerfully greets everyone. As you enter into the open plan library and reception area for the art gallery it is bathed in light and space, with the bookshelves organised in an almost Feng Shui manner.

Y Gaer, has nationally important artefacts including a log boat from the Medieval era.

Its paintings are by well known artists (John Varley, Graham Sutherland, Eric Ravilious to name but a few).

Royal Depictions

The museum entrance is to your immediate right as you enter the building's foyer and you are instantly greeted with a dramatic life sized scene of a weathered stone sculpture, identified as King Tilreud. thrusting his right hand forward with a hand sized crucifix in it. His features are somewhat abstract, with a solemn expression, his crown on his head. A windswept, heavily bearded harpist stands above him signifying his approaching death. A young woman stoops supporting her father or husband with her hands placed on his back and heart.

Visitors might feel the weight of history standing face to face with an enigmatic ruler whose name has persisted through the centuries, but whose story remains largely unknown. The display is carefully arranged to highlight the importance of the sculpture, with informative plaques nearby that delve into the mystery of King Tilreud’s identity and the context of his time.

The space around the statue is quiet and reverent with well worn flagstones in the reception area that also evoke a sense of stepping back in time. My wife chatted with the distinguished and friendly retiree who was in charge of reception that day while I took in the tidy displays in the foyer.

It was with delight to see one particular 400 year old display opposite Tilreud's demise, a Royal hunting scene made with stump-work embroidery of silver and gold-thread. Royal hunts were a favourite pastime of the aristocracy and this portrayal showcases Charles I, surrounded by 3D acorns and oak leaves as well as his hunting party. The use of silver and gold thread emphasized the wealth and status of the subjects, common in such regal depictions. Such embroideries are not only valued for their craftsmanship, but also as historical records of the period’s cultural and political significance.

A modern glass panelled reception has a large, dramatic oil painting of a sea scene behind on the wall. The lovely receptionist offered information on the various amenities of lifts, toilets and where to assemble in case of an emergency, as well as the usual friendly chat about the exhibits and upcoming events. Entrance is free.

Inside, Y Gaer features modern gallery spaces, very good lighting and (a surprise for me, at least in a Welsh building,) air conditioning! This was welcomed on a bright, humid 28 degree day in early September, 2023. It may have been the reason we had the place to ourselves as well. These warm weather days had been quite rare in the area most of that year.

Standing Stones and Prehistoric Exhibits

Like most of us when stood before these behemoths the speculation is overwhelming as to how the ancestors rolled, slid or carried and erected them. Pulleys and winches and oxen and horses no doubt, but I ponder on the precise alignments of their tips against the night sky for the major and minor lunar standstills. I find it quite baffling when the few nights of moon mark that date, the all too common Welsh rain may have halted progress and you needed to wait another 18.6 years to make sure you got it right (and hoped it didn't cloud over then as well). I'm sure they used something a little lighter than a 10-20 ton stone to mark the spot before aligning the stones so precisely, but the real reasons for their toils are gone with them.

Besides standing stones, there are exhibits of prehistoric tools, weapons, and objects made of flint and stone, which also show how early inhabitants lived.

Later Welsh History Exhibits

Exhibits from the later periods, include Norman military items, armour and agricultural tools that reflect the history of conquest and the development of medieval Welsh society.

The museum also showcases a range of objects from Welsh domestic life, including traditional Welsh clothing, farming tools, and household items, shedding light on the daily lives of people in rural Wales over the centuries.

My favourite of these are the fishing tackle of old brass reels, fly boxes, full dress salmon flies, an assortment of Devon minnows and other vintage lures. These were probably used in the nearby river Usk.

There is iconography close by this display showing a successful fishing day when migratory fish were abundant. The scene depicts a quaint arched bridge over a river pool where two young ladies in Victorian attire spectate from the rocky bank as a ghillie waits to net a third salmon the laird has hooked.

Interactive and Educational Exhibits

In an adjoining space there is a large bellows styled land camera. The same as those used by Ansel Adams and John Muir when artistically documenting Yosemite national park. Those men lifted these heavy instruments up most of the peaks there to grab the snaps that made Adams famous. The sight of this one, in almost mint condition, triggered those weightlifting climbs for me by yet another terrific exhibit. The museum has two fine examples of the large industrial blacksmith bellows on display too.

Most of the displays have touch screen information conveniently placed next to each item or a plaque with easy to absorb information.

Art and Decorative Exhibits

The museum’s artwork and decorative pieces also interpret and celebrate Welsh folklore, legends like those of the 'Mabinogion,' a mix of historical events and mythical storytelling, giving insights into the culture and beliefs of medieval Wales. These tales were passed down orally before being written in middle Welsh in manuscripts and remain one of the most important works of Welsh literature, influencing modern fantasy literature and continuing to inspire storytellers today.

We enjoyed almost two hours of the well thought out exhibits and pristine layouts of the Victorian courtroom that was in use in the building until 1971. The Victorian classroom (pictured at top) was another original space that smelled that way classrooms always do, (it should be bottled) and both those areas had that feel as if they were recently used.

We had to collect keys to our lodgings for that evening, so were pushed for time to take in the art gallery which also features sculptures, and ceramics from Welsh artists, often depicting landscapes and rural life, emphasizing the natural beauty of the Brecon Beacons and its surroundings. It is those very surroundings we will return to ramble in soon and climb Pen Y Fan to view Brecon, its river and canal from above.

Library Lessons

The adjacent library offers resources and information for visitors wishing to study Welsh history, genealogy, and the cultural heritage of the Brecon Beacons area.

This diverse collection provides a deep dive into the archaeological, cultural, and social history of Brecon and its surrounding areas, offering a comprehensive look at its past from prehistoric times to the modern era.

Y Gaer is a cultural hub and home to the Brecknock Museum and Art Gallery, and Brecon Library. Providing community and educational spaces and a cafe.

Times and Contacts

Contacts

There is a large pay and display car park a stones throw from the entrance of the museum.

Ian George

Professionally, Ian has written two successful theatre plays for the Edinburgh Fringe festival, countless SEO articles, websites and technical copy for print and online publications.

He has also written journalism, short films and documentaries for over three decades.

He is a leading expert with emerging 3D capture techniques called radiance fields and writes creatively for his own media business and extended reality game design.

Website: www.cosmicoakmedia.co.uk X.com: @Scannerian1