I always visit the wonderful Château Chillon when I am lucky enough to be in Montreux, Switzerland. A stunning castle on Lake Geneva, within the Swiss canton of Vaud.
According to the information from the team at Chillon, the site the visitor sees encompasses the periods 12th Century known as the Savoy period, through the Bernese Period (16th – 18th Century), to the Vaudois Period that spans the 18th Century to the present day, though there is evidence of the site being occupied since the 9th Century. This makes the castle a real gem for the visiting historian.
Within the walls of the castle, you won't just find ruins and echoes of the military past... while they are of course in abundance, you will also find details of the wine produced in the region, information on the 1816 poem penned by Lord Byron about the imprisoned monk François Bonivard, a phenomenal display of ornate chests and at Christmas, a festive transformation of the whole site. So, I'm confident to say that there is something for everyone when visiting this site.
The site has so much to offer, I cannot include everything, so the following is what I took away from my visits and what had most impact on me. I arrived to the castle by boat on my first visit and it was a breathtaking scene when the castle came into view, dwarfed by the spectacular mountains surrounding, including the Dents du Midi Mountain range. The extremely friendly staff allowed me to practice my French but happily switched to English when I struggled with certain questions. I spent a lot of time admiring the external view and then crossed the bridge into the main castle. I knew from the map I was given that there was a lot to see, but I admit I wondered after dozens of rooms and staircases, how much more there could possibly be! Corridor after corridor and room after room, all showing different aspects of the castle's history, on my first visit I was determined to see everything. It was a baking hot day in April 2022 and the stone structure provided excellent shade and a cool respite from the heat, however, the climbing through the structure did take a lot of effort. It was very much worth it though and I'm glad I saw all this magnificent site has to offer. I have visited at least once a year (sometimes twice if there for Christmas) since and will also be doing so this year.
A stand out part for me is the underground section, ‘Les Oubliettes’ or the forgotten chambers. This dungeon area has the most amazing architecture, the uneven, largely bare floor, is beautifully contrasted with the detailed pillars and gothic vaulted ceiling. It is a large open space with information on Byron and Bolivard and some religious imagery in the form of pictures carved into the walls (15th Century ‘Crucifixion avec Saints’). While its history is not always pleasant, it a hauntingly beautiful area and one worth spending time in to see all it has to offer.
In one of the lower corridor areas, there is a very clever use of silhouettes, these images projected on the stone walls show the different type of people that would have been at the castle in its time as a military fortress, prison or residence. This display is very striking and really brings the different time periods alive. I heard some describe this as eerie but I did not feel that, as the area is so quiet and dark, you are forced to focus on the moving silhouettes and it pulls you in to a former time.
There are extensive displays of weaponry, from canons to suits of armour and the slits in the walls still remain, offering a look into the military past and allowing the visitor to look out and view the lake close up and see the surrounding landscapes from a unique vantage point. While the many stairs can be a challenge, I would encourage you if you are able, to get to the top rooms at least once. The armorial displays really are worth seeing and some of the rooms do have benches for rest stops.
One of the great halls now houses a collection of chests, mostly from the 17th and 18th Century but some are older. This exhibition holds 80 pieces and they are displayed very well on purpose made racks, so you can see the whole piece as all angles are visible. Some of the chests have the most beautiful, ornate patterns on, whereas others are plainer and seem more functional than decorative. There are benches all around this room, so you can sit and take in this large exhibition if you prefer. This room rather creeps up on you, after the smaller bedrooms, it suddenly opens up to his grand space and it is a pleasant surprise.
I cannot write about Château Chillon and not mention Christmas, there is a wonderful festive transformation of the site at this time of year. Lights are strung across the many courtyards, many large trees decorate the open areas and even the little windows had bauble decorations in them, making the whole site take on a different feel. After the hustle and bustle of the truly spectacular Christmas Market in Montreux, my family and I took a break to visit the castle and were certainly not disappointed, it really rounded off our festive trip. While the exhibitions stay largely the same, seeing the site decked out for Christmas was very special. A dressed-up tour guide enthusiastically guided a group of excited children around the castle, the cannons seemed to be a particularly popular stopping point for this (I believe this was a school group, there are adult tours available with a guide as well but there is no pressure to join a tour). The castle gift shop also provided a great opportunity to pick up some Christmas presents, it is well stocked all year but had some lovely extra decorations for sale.
The castle is easily accessed by road, boat and rail and if you are staying on the Riviera you will be given the Riviera card at your hotel and this allows discount on the boat and free bus journeys. The Riviera card also gives discount off the castle admission price. The general pricing as of February 2025 is, Adults 15 CHF and Children 7 CHF (reduced to 7.50 and 3.50 respectively with the Riviera card), audio guide in multiple languages is available for 6 CHF. The site has toilets and baby changing facilities and disabled toilets are available upon request.
The website has a lot of information for you to look at prior to your visit and is available in English, French and German, www.chillon.ch they also have a very active Instagram, where you can find details of events @chateauchillon.
The Site is not wheelchair accessible, and as someone who has chronic pain and mobility issues, I can confirm some parts of the site are a challenge to those with decreased mobility. You are encouraged to leave pushchairs at the entrance and should you choose to take a pushchair in, they are not allowed on the tours and you would struggle to use one anywhere but the courtyards, it is suggested you use a baby/child carrier.
Across from the site entrance there is a wonderful cafe, ‘Cafe Byron’, this offers a lot of choice for food (hot and cold) and drink. While connected to Château Chillon, you do not have to have a ticket to use the cafe. This is fully accessible and a member of my party is gluten free and had no problems eating here, similarly, there is a lot of choice for vegetarians.
The site is open year-round, it only closes on December 25th and January 1st. The opening hours alter slightly depending on the month, April – Sept 9-7, March and October 9.30 - 6 and November to February 10 – 5.
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Helen has an undergraduate degree in History from York St John and a Masters degree in Eighteenth Century Studies from the University of York.
Her particular area of interest is the history of crime in the 18th Century and is very passionate about museums and heritage and has worked in many museums, most recently she worked for York Museums Trust.
Twitter/X @Coffee23Helen
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